Varun Sardana Spring/Summer 2011 at Will Lifestyle Fashion Week, Delhi
Varun Sardana played up his neutral palette; all garments almost exclusively in black, white, ivory and hints of grey with exquisite and intricate costume jewellery like gold accessories. The models even wore malligai poo or gajara (semicircle garland of jasmine flowers round the bun or plait) not unlike the gorgeous Devadasis or temple dancers of the ancient South Indian tradition :) Although I loved Sardana's contemporary pieces (which he has carved himself a neat niche for), its their pairing with age old 'temple jewellery' which is a unique style of jewellery that is native to Southern India that jumped at me! I suppose the South Indian connection thrilled me more than I can say ;) 

This style of jewellery came into existence around the 12th century during the rule of Chola Dynasty mainly to decorate deities and was later worn by temple dancers too. The Natyam or dance itself is believed to be the manifestation of the ancient idea of celebration of the eternal universe through the celebration of the beauty of material body. I've been romanticising how this idea belongs so beautifully in a fashion designer showcasing his collection :)

Temple Jewellery has become an iconography of refined culture and historic relevance and I absolutely enjoyed its unexpected placement in the work of an ultra modern designer like Varun Sardana's. More than just making a statement, I get a kick out the symbolism in the jewellery and its significance for good luck and fortune. In the collection, peacock and floral motifs were seen both in necklaces and jewelled stilettos while hair in kathakali inspired high buns were adorned with classical crescent shaped 'moon' brooches which are known to invoke blessings of the moon for peace and love. I thought I even detected crown motifs in the giant necklace pendants which looked like they had enamel paints standing in for real rubies and emeralds ;)

As for the garments themselves, the fluid, languid sensuality of the dancers you now see on temple walls was conveyed pretty well with the sheer short dresses that moved with your natural curves. I also hear that the devadasis walked to the music of the swell Malayalam rock-metal band, Avial whom we all love down here. I decided you must take in the collection to the tune of their music too. Here are some of Faiza's favourites from Avial:
Nada Nada

Aadu Pambe 

And mine called Chekele :)

Trends to wear: Besides making a bold statement with mixing pretty South Indian costume jewellery with stark mordern pieces, applique, sheer dresses, bubble shirts, shots of animal prints, printed trousers, peacock motifs, some seriously bejewelled heels and jasmine flowers to top off the look! :)